Thalassa
 
 

Catch the spirit of the Aegean on Franklin Street

By Zoe Bullock

Tucked away discreetly amid the red brick buildings of Tribeca lies this portal into the world of Greek seafood. Taking its name from the ancient spirit of Greek mythology responsible for bringing forth the fish and other creatures of the deep, Thalassa on the inside feels like a summer evening on the Aegean coast. The ceilings rise up, while white drapery reminiscent of sails, soft white candlelight, and hints of Greek flora and fauna adorn the airy space.

Just beyond the long, curved marble bar that greets you at the entrance, you come to a chic display on ice—a mini fish market of sorts decorously offering the catch of the day. Your choice is ready and waiting to be ordered, prepared, grilled, and served simply and enticingly: filleted with a simple olive oil, caper, and lemon topping.
One of Thalassa’s hands-down standouts has to be the Maine diver scallops, which maintain a chewy, succulent interior while showcasing a soft and satisfyingly crunchy kataifi phyllo exterior. Topped with tangy sheep butter, earthy diced tomatoes and zucchinis, and a sweet-sour balsamic reduction, the dish expertly marries textures and flavors for a unique experience. The lavraki, a Mediterranean sea bass, is another must try for a different, and (pun-free) classically Greek, fresh taste of seafood.

For dessert, the obvious choice is the galaktobouriko, citrus custard layered into crunchy phyllo, topped with a drizzle of honey. And to complete your immersion in the flavors of the Aegean, enjoy Thalassa’s Nico Lararidi Lion d’Or Cabernet Sauvignon. This interesting 2004 Greek vintage received three out of four stars from Wine Enthusiast and a critic rating of 86. It’s the perfect accompaniment to these comfort plates of the Mediterranean, and completes your sneak peak into the summer experience, in a breezy environment that’s already there—or never left.

hours

Dinner: Mon–Thu 5:30 PM–11 PM; Fri–Sat 5:30 PM–midnight
Closed Sunday

price range

$6 (Greek country sausage) to $58 (Dover sole)
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