The Royce Wood-Fired Steakhouse

Refined steakhouse in historic Pasadena setting

By Joshua Lurie

Not many LA properties display the kind of grandeur that The Langham Huntington, Pasadena does. Rooted in traditions that span more than a century, the hotel’s stature is bolstered further by the inclusion of this classic, upscale restaurant. Follow the elegant hallway and pass between a pair of temperature-controlled red and white wine rooms to reach The Royce Wood-Fired Steakhouse, where sumptuous seating, views of the impeccable grounds, and an overhead design element resembling the starlit sky above a racetrack all invite you to enjoy a taste of the good life.

Seasoned—and seasonally minded—executive chef Perry Pollaci presides over a wood-fired Aztec grill, which burns white oak and instills magic in everything it touches, whether that’s Wagyu beef, king salmon, or produce plucked from The Royce’s on-site organic garden.

Each meal starts with a basket of soft gougères, black olive bread, and sliced sourdough. Your meal will probably get meaty, so ease into matters with a great salad. The butter lettuce salad with wedges of greens, graced with herbaceous dressing, fresh-sliced avocado, crunchy shaved beets and an oozy farm egg, is a particularly nice place to start.

Steak is of course the main event at The Royce, whether it’s US Prime cuts sourced from three different farms, or Australian Wagyu from legendary golfer Greg Norman. Rib eye and the mighty tomahawk are of course great choices, especially if you’re sharing, though other cuts still pack plenty of punch. The outside skirt delivers impressive marbling, a strong flavor, and a winning sear. Complimentary sauces include aerated Bearnaise, Bordelaise, and chimichurri, and you can also top your steak with luxury items like seared foie gras or sweet grilled Madagascar gambas.

A la carte sides like grilled artichokes with artichoke aïoli and grilled broccolini and broccoli with garlic confit and chile flakes, make tasty foils to the rich beef. Golden-crusted mac and cheese is also a must, loaded with chunks of cotto ham, Emmental, aged Cheddar, and Gouda. And if you make it to dessert, well, good work—though it’s tempting to just double down on steak.

hours

Tue–Thu 5:30 PM–10 PM; Fri–Sat 5:30 PM–10:30 PM

price range

$38 (outside skirt) to $190 (48 oz. Australian Wagyu tomahawk)
x