Luce

Xu Zeng

Luce

Nothing beats having a top-flight chef cook for you, and Dominique Crenn, the InterContinental’s first female executive chef, just awarded a Michelin star for the second year in a row, is not only upper echelon but also very popular right now (she recently won the Iron Chef America competition for a five-course meal based on yogurt). Crenn rules in the Luce kitchen and knows how to make a dish taste like you’ve never sampled it before, even if you have many times. Lobster, silky and uncomplicated, with big juicy morsels of meat, is paired with the unique, sweet flavor of uni. Squid-ink pasta carbonara finds new depth and briny flavor with bits of baby squid. Luce’s décor provides a fitting backdrop for Crenn’s stellar performance; fanciful shiny globes hanging throughout the dining room may remind you of the moons from the first Star Wars film, even if you don’t indulge in the restaurant’s fine selection of 180 grappas, the largest collection in the nation.

sweet seats

The semicircular booth in the middle of the dining room affords a 360-degree view.

chew on this

Chef Crenn, who grew up in Versailles, was introduced to the pleasures of cooking by her mother and to fine dining by her father, a politician and close friend of a food critic.

hours

breakfast: Mon.–Fri. 6 AM–11 AM
lunch: Mon.–Fri. 11 AM–2:30 PM
dinner: Mon.–Sun. 5 PM–11 PM
brunch: Sat.–Sun. 6 AM–2:30 PM

price range

$26 (pork and pork cheek) to $32 (venison mosaic)
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